Makeup for Gaston Leroux's The Phantom of the Opera

"Yes, if I lived to be a hundred, I should always hear the superhuman cry of grief and rage which he uttered when the terrible sight appeared before my eyes....Raoul, you have seen death's heads, when they have been dried and withered by the centuries, and, perhaps, if you were not the victim of a nightmare, you saw HIS death's head at Perros. And then you saw Red Death stalking about at the last masked ball. But all those death's heads were motionless and their dumb horror was not alive. But imagine, if you can, Red Death's mask suddenly coming to life in order to express, with the four black holes of its eyes, its nose, and its mouth, the extreme anger, the mighty fury of a demon; AND NOT A RAY OF LIGHT FROM THE SOCKETS, for, as I learned later, you can not see his blazing eyes except in the dark.

"I fell back against the wall and he came up to me, grinding his teeth, and, as I fell upon my knees, he hissed mad, incoherent words and curses at me. Leaning over me, he cried, `Look! You want to see! See! Feast your eyes, glut your soul on my cursed ugliness! Look at Erik's face! Now you know the face of the voice!'"
(Christine Daaé, Gaston Leroux's The Phantom of the Opera)

 

Phantom on a Budget went back to the fandom's roots for its latest project - makeup representing the original Erik created by Gaston Leroux.  In the original novel, Erik is described by Christine as having a "death's head:" a skull like appearance.  He is very pale, skeletal in appearance, and even smelled of death - certainly not an attractive fellow, nor the character fitting the more recent adaptations of the story (ie. the 2004 Schumacher/ALW film)!  After being asked to do a deviantArt photo shoot using the Leroux makeup scheme, Lindsey went about applying, setting, and coloring the prosthetics and other makeup.  Below are some photos, descriptions, and instructions for creating this look.

Gaston Leroux / Lon Chaney Phantom of the Opera Makeup Tutorial Now on YouTube!

Creating the Leroux Disfigurement

A Word About Makeup:
There are numerous options to choose from when it comes to selecting the type of makeup (foundation) to use.  Generally speaking, stay away from everyday street makeup you can find in drug stores, etc, and stick to theatrical quality makeup.  It'll have much better coverage and therefore be much more effective.  I've stuck to creme makeup over the years, but one thing to keep in mind if using creme makeup is the need for castor sealer as well.  You cannot put creme makeup on latex, because the latex will begin to break down.  Creme makeup lacks an ingredient to prevent this, so before you put on any creme makeup, you must put castor sealer on the latex first.  Let that sit ten minutes or so, then wipe the excess off.  After that you can apply the creme over the latex and continue.  Creme makeup also requires the use of setting powder to set the makeup and prevent it from rubbing off all over you and your clothing.  Rubber mask grease paint (RMGP) is a widely used makeup made especially for latex appliances, therefore requires no preparation with the castor sealer.  I would suggest RMGP only for use on the appliances, though, and not the entire face.  Use creme makeup everywhere else if you choose RMGP for the latex.  RMGP also requires powder to set it, and generally much more powder than creme makeup does.  Water-based cake makeup is another option, and should not require any special preparation.  Finally, alcohol-activated makeup is a fine choice that does not need any preparation or setting materials like spray or powder.  It stays put on one's face very well on its own.  However, it's generally much pricier than other options listed here.  For a list of theatrical makeup websites, scroll to the bottom of my Makeup page.

Advice on Adhesives:
Spirit gum is a favorite sell for Halloween shops, but it is a poor choice for attaching prosthetics.  It is much better suited for lace hair pieces and crepe hair.  It is cheap and easily found, but be aware that there are higher quality products available.  A silicone or acrylic based adhesive such as Telesis or Pros-Aide, respectively, will offer a much more secure bond.   Be aware that these more powerful adhesives require a proper removal agent.

Nose Putty/Scar Wax/Mortician's (Derma) Wax:
Some people prefer to use these materials for building three-dimensional effects instead of the latex/cotton routine.  Each has its own pros and cons.

Covering Eyebrows:
You may want to cover your brow to conceal it and protect the hair from the latex.  You can purchase eyebrow plastic to cover, use gelatin, or go especially low-tech with a simple bar of soap.  To use this method, simply dampen the soap and rub it into the brow with and against the hair growth until all the hair is well covered.  Smooth the hair down and cover with creme makeup, latex, or whatever other product you intend on using.

Instructions
1.  Clean face thoroughly
2.  Pour small amount of liquid latex onto disposable plate or dish, and allow ammonia smell to dissipate 
3.  Apply a thin layer of latex with a sponge on the cheekbone and above the eye (over the eyebrow)
4.  Rip cotton balls into desired size and roll pieces of cotton in latex
5.  Apply cotton/latex to face in desired areas (focusing on building up the cheekbones and eye sockets) 
6.  Apply several layers of latex over the cotton to help smooth and secure it, then allow to dry
7.  Apply spirit gum to the tip of the nose and between the eyes, tapping both spots until the glue becomes tacky
8.  Place a strip of surgical tape on the tip of the nose and hold down so it bonds with the spirit gum.  Then pull the tape up and back, and place the free end on the spirit gum at the top of the nose/between the eyes.  This pulls the nose up to give it a more skull like appearance  
9.  Prepare the modeling wax/nose putty by working it in your hand until it is soft.  
10.  Apply spirit gum over the top of the nose, and pat it until it becomes tacky
11.  Tap a cotton ball over the spirit gum to get some of the fibers to stick (the cotton fibers will help hold the wax in place on your nose)
12.  Place and sculpt the nose putty over the nose and tape, securing with spirit gum and a layer of liquid latex over it
13.  Once finished with latex, apply Castor Sealer to latex and allow to sit for at least 10 minutes (*ONLY if using creme makeup.  Castor sealer prepares latex for creme makeup)
14.  Wipe off Castor Sealer
15.  Apply makeup makeup with sponge
16.  Apply settingt powder to help set the creme or greasepaint makeups
17.  Create highlights/lowlights using eye liner and eye shadow to desired effect
18.  Apply lip color as desired.
19.  Spray Barrier Spray onto a piece of cotton and dab over face and all areas covered by makeup to prevent it from rubbing off (be careful not to get setting spray in your eyes!)

* Apply Spirit Gum to glue the edges back down if/when latex separates from the skin
* To remove, simply peel off.  Remove makeup with makeup remover cloths, etc

Need more ideas?  Feel free to email me at phantomtango1[at]yahoo[dot]com, or check out my friend's Lon Chaney makeup tutorial over at Phantom's Theater!

Comments or questions regarding the makeup process?  Please sign the guestbook!

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